Episode 12: The Torngat Diaries

White beaming icebergs float in the distance, perfectly still, fighting against the waves, crashing against them.

One hour later we are leaving Big Island behind (GPS position 58.590560/-62.818193), and I’m here sitting with Joe and Cino, talking and looking overboard, quietly and eagerly hoping to spot a humpback whale, or maybe get so lucky as to see a polar bear close enough for a good shot. Cino is Joe’s little white dog—and he doesn’t leave Joe’s side ever, even when it looks like he’s suffering from the rocking of the boat and rough waters. He’s always there, stoically on Joe’s lap, quietly enduring the seasickness.

Joe has many stories about the ocean and his life, telling me he’s survived his own “perfect storm” and loved the movie of the same name. I go below deck to have a bite, and have a chance to try his world-famous stew: delicious—maybe not really world-famous, but for sure authentic.

It’s 11:20 a.m. (GPS position 58.910193/-63.058926), and we turn west for Nachvak Fjord. My last moments on board the Robert Bradford are spent stuffing my backpack with any kind of energy bar, dry food and supplies that I can find. Mission accomplished: but boy, my backpack is really heavy!



By 13:10 p.m. (1:10) we are at 58.858823/-63.295025. And this is where our Torngat trekking starts. But that’s another page of my diary! Stay tuned.